Unsure about how to treat your aging skin? "Confusion and uncertainty is understandable given the countless number of products that claim they can magically fix these conditions," says Deborah Sarnoff, M.D., Assistant Clinical Professor of Dermatology at New York University. "The good news is that dermatologists have access to a vast array of medically proven treatments to help reduce or eliminate wrinkles, brown spots, and other signs of aging and improve the overall appearance of skin." Following is a brief description of several skin care options for aging skin, an explanation of what each can do, and important information patients should know about each one. Talk to your dermatologist about which treatments are best suited for your skin and lifestyle.

Cosmetics/Over-the-Counter

Moisturizers
What they are: Creams and lotions - usually a mixture of oil, water and emulsifying agents.

What they can do: Temporarily plump up your skin and alleviate dryness, making it soft to the touch.

What you should know: Moisturizers don't penetrate deeply into your skin, so they can't produce any lasting changes.

Exfoliants
What they are: Facial scrubs, grainy soaps and abrasive sponges.

What they can do: Remove some of the outer layers of the skin so that the surface looks and feels smoother.

What you should know: This is not a permanent change; exfoliants can cause some irritation in sensitive skin.

Alpha-Hydroxy acids (AHAs)
What they are: Naturally occurring complexes derived from food sources such as fruit, milk or sugar cane.

What they can do: Remove top layer of dead skin cells and moisturize skin.

What you should know: Many products contain low levels of AHAs. Higher concentrations are available from physicians. AHAs can be irritating, with tingling or burning on application.

Retinol
What it is: Retinol is a Vitamin A derivative. Retinol is considered a cosmetic and not a prescription drug.

What it can do: Vitamin A plays a natural role in maintaining and promoting skin health. Retinol works on the surface of the skin to renew and restore skin's appearance.

What you should know: Retinol is a cosmetic ingredient. Retinol and all retinoids may produce irritation, depending on the concentration of retinol in the product and the patient's skin type.

Prescription Cream(s)

RENOVA® (tretinoin cream) 0.02% and RENOVA (tretinoin emollient cream) 0.05%
What they are: A Vitamin A derivative in a cream base, available only through a doctor.

What they can do: RENOVA (tretinoin cream) is the only Food and Drug Administration approved prescription cream that is medically proven to reduce fine facial wrinkles when used as part of a total skin care and sun protection program (RENOVA 0.05% also fades brown spots).

What you should know: Like other prescription medicines, RENOVA has been tested for safety and effectiveness. While using RENOVA, users may experience some redness, itching or flaking. This is most often mild, and most common when treatment is started. In some cases, irritation may be severe. When using RENOVA, as with any other therapy for the treatment of aging skin, patients should limit exposure to the sun and always use a sunscreen. Please review Full U.S. Prescribing Information for a description of the indication and important information on warnings and precautions.

Click here to receive a free RENOVA skin care guide and a $5 savings on RENOVA, or call 1-800-64-RENOVA (1-800-647-3668).

Invasive Procedures

Chemical Peels
What they are: Application of an acid solution such as glycolic, trichloroacetic acid or phenol which are applied by a physician to the entire face or just to certain regions. Chemical peels vary according to their specific ingredient and strength and the depth at which they peel.

What they can do: Remove the outer layer(s) of skin, which will be replaced by fresher new skin during healing.

What you should know: Healing time, risks and benefits all depend on the strength of the peel. (Deeper chemical peels will produce redness and swelling to varying degrees. After the initial redness subsides skin may be pink for several weeks to months). Results last from six months to several years. Light chemical peels will need to be repeated periodically in order to maintain their benefits.

Dermabrasion and Laser Therapy
What they are: Mechanical resurfacing procedures which remove the outer layers to expose smooth, new skin below. Dermabrasion uses a small, rapidly spinning wheel with a roughened surface similar to fine-grained sandpaper to abrade the skin. Laser therapy removes skin layers by vaporization.

What they can do: Both are used for fine wrinkling. Dermabrasion is also used for scarring; laser therapy for blotchiness or age spots.

What you should know: Type and length of reaction (including erythema, redness, or skin blotchiness) may vary from weeks to months.

Fat and Collagen Injections
What they are: Injections of either fat taken from elsewhere in your body, or a form of biological collagen.

What they can do: Fill isolated deep wrinkles, depressions and acne scars.

What you should know: Most patients require a skin test prior to treatment, since approximately two percent of patients show an allergic reaction to collagen. Periodic maintenance treatments are needed to restore the skin to its desired state.

Cosmetic Surgery
What it is: Performed to reshape normal structures of the body in order to improve the patient's appearance and self-esteem (e.g., tightening of the skin around the eyes; full, deep tissue face lift, liposuction).

What it can do: Reshape your face or get rid of jowls and loose skin; often used with prescription skin cream or chemical peels to improve the skin as the face is resculpted.

What you should know: Although cosmetic, this is surgery. Choose a surgeon carefully, and ask questions including what you can realistically expect from the procedure.

Botox®
What it is: Botox is the trade name of Botulinum Toxin Type A, a purified toxin produced by the bacterium Clostridum botulinum. It is most effective for the frown lines between the eyebrows, but can also be used to lessen the horizontal wrinkles in the central portion of the forehead and crow's-feet around the eyes. It is not effective for wrinkles in the middle and lower portion of the face. While the treatment can be used alone, it is often used as an adjunct to other cosmetic procedures such as face-lift or laser resurfacing.

What it can do: In large amounts, this toxin blocks the nerve impulses to muscles, causing a form of paralysis called botulism. By using extremely small doses of Botox, injected directly into a specific muscle, only action of that muscle will be paralyzed. Botox injections are used to weaken the fine line muscles around the eyes and forehead that are responsible for the frown lines and deep wrinkles that occur in these areas.

What you should know: Botox takes 3-5 days to take effect and lasts between 3-6 months. There have been no permanent side effects reported from the use of Botox. Approximately one percent of patients will develop a slight lowering or drooping of one eyelid. This is temporary (may last 2-3 weeks) and may not even be noticed by the patient.